If it is shared, then I'm not sure what the best way to deal with this is. I'm not sure if the environment is shared between tasks - if not, it might be better to have separate tasks for each timezone. Note that there's a fairly well known memory leak in setenv() which means that if you change timezones repeatedly, which you might do for an application that handles multiple time zones, you'll eventually run out of memory.

Not exactly obvious but at least it's explicit about daylight savings.Īlso, to use UTC, you need to use 'UTC0', or gmtime/gmtime_r(). Somewhere, after an hour of digging, I found I had to use 'NZST-12NZDT,M9.5.0,M4.1.0/3'. I had the same problem - usually with most environments I'd use TZ='Pacific/Auckland' or sometimes ':Pacific/Auckland', which is what most timezone searches would reveal. It was not a matter of defining the time zones, but which syntax to use. If you don't already have it, get Dan's book 'The Lost Art of Steam Heating', available on the Books and More page of this site.Exactly that was not useful to find the solution. Once you get the system running properly, you will likely use considerably less fuel. Can you take a picture of one and post it here? I'm not familiar with Webstone vents at all. Radiator vents close on temperature, and it is normal for them to cool off and open, then close again when steam gets inside them. If you're not comfortable doing the above, go to the Find a Contractor page of this site to locate a good steam man near you. If there aren't any, or they're too small, have the proper ones installed. If the steam does not distribute thru the system at low pressures, check the vents at the ends of the steam mains. Here’s how you can add a Timer from the Input menu. Now, let’s look at how we can achieve this Take a Timer control on the SuccessScreen. This may be contributing to the loud vents and steam leaks. Using Timer to Navigate between Screens.The pressure cutout on the boiler should stop the burner at a maximum of 2 pounds. I'd check all your valves and repack those that need it.Īlso check that your system isn't building too much pressure. Recheck for proper tightness after the system has heated up. Tighten the nut enough so you feel some resistance when turning the knob. With the system off and cold, unscrew the nut and wrap the string around the stem (rod) clockwise, using enough to almost completely fill up the nut. Get some good graphite-impregnated string packing- any good hardware store should carry it. Those radiator shutoffs do not need replacement. There are No stupid questions in steam heatingĮxcept the ones you don't ask. What type of wrench is usually used for tightening these large nuts? I don't have a cresent wrench largeĮnough, and tongue and groove pliers tend to chew up the nut. I'm also not sure whether the leaking is at the flange itself or through the threads.Īlso, I've noticed leaking on some radiators that haven't been removed, at least not by me. Someone also suggested teflon tape, but I wondered whether Initially, but in a month or so started leaking again. Is thereĪnything special I need to do at the joint? I tried plumbers putty on one of the joints, which may have worked

Tightening the nut further helped some, but some leaking is still noticed. After sandblasting and repainting, I tried attaching the radiators again to the flange and notice some These steam radiators have a single connection to the steam source on one end and an air vent at While in the process of renovating a 1910 colonial, I've had to pull out a few steam radiators to have I originally posted this on the Fine Homebuilding Breaktime Forum, and someone there suggested I try asking my question here.

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